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With the bowling world constantly advancing, it is important to get back to basics. The JR Pro Shop team is back to explain some of bowling's biggest misconceptions!
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0:00 – Intro
0:31 – First Misconception
6:11 – Question Time!
6:45 – Second Misconception
10:22 – Third Misconception
12:00 – Fourth Misconception
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19 Comments on “Bowl Higher Scores | Bowling Misconceptions | DON’T DO THIS!!!”
Very useful for beginner bowlers looking to compete, thank you for sharing this!
Will you guys review the Zen Master?
Worst advice I got was to buy a new ball if my old ones weren’t performing
Guys, thank you so much for this! I’m going to put this on repeat in my shop!
I was in the junior gold this year and my grandpa said if it’s overlooking I should move right (I’m right handed) so I ended up going almost 200 under that day
“That ball is dead too many chips” brand new Fatal venom that got chipped from the ball return. It had many tiny chips and the PSO said I could get it polished but that getting it resurfaced to get rid of the chips would “kill” the ball.
Excellent video as usual. Especially liked the urethane part. I bowl strictly on THS. The worst challenge is finding that the house hasn’t oiled the lanes for our senior league. Still not sure what to do with burned up lanes. Tend to go with less reactive shiny balls like a Surge, Hustle RAP or the Electrify Hybrid. Did very well with the Venom Shock one week by moving way left and targeting way right.
I do agree if your intention on the first misconception is to “destroy” bowling as a secret formula, I mean, strong balls equals long oil patterns, and weaker balls equals short oil patterns. But, as a non native english speaker, I understood that the first idea is false, and you should think it the other way around, and that’s also false; because as you said it in the end, there’s lots of variables that may cause you to change the way you play; duller stronger balls on the long… and it will work, as it would work on a short as well. (Based on the shots you’ve shown, particularly on the long, a little surface adjustment, or a little movement with the feet would have worked as well, I think)
In the end you should use whatever works to knock out the pins in the most effective way, and one day, the stronger duller ball will do the work on a “heavy long oil” pattern, as well on a “short light oil” pattern, and vice versa with the lighter weaker balls with less surface, because as I said, there’s no secret formula and you need to be prepared for everything that’ll do the work.
In the end, the idea is that every ball has a reaction that would work on every condition that may be successful, and there is not a limit on where to use those reactions.
In your Proton Physix ball review, you said it would suit longer oil patterns, any reasons why it didn’t perform for Simoo? What adjustments can be made?
When I started bowling league where I bowl I listed to a guy that said their house shot was only 30 ft long… So I went out and bought the pitch black, turns out it’s 42 ft with light oil…
Great video, learning a lot. For the beatup house pattern, if urethane is not a good choice what would be a good ball to go to? How would a dull strong ball look and a shiny weak ball look on a beat-up house shot?
One of your best videos ever!
Liked the part about why urethane does not work well on house shots.
Lol only misconception I had was when jungo told me he will give me a box discount on my new bowling ball. 😤😂
The original coach for my college’s bowling team, upon one of the students going through the face, told him to “Move right and take your hand out of it”
With the urethane on a dry house shot the moves were so extreme between the two examples each bowler threw. There was definitely a much wider margin to the pocket then you guys tried to demonstrate. I get what you were going for and I did enjoy the video!
Something I recently learned is that I can move my eyes! Back in high school I was taught to pick my one mark and that’s it. Only adjust your feet. Now with help from your videos, I know that eye movements are crucial to adjusting properly for different conditions.
I would state there could be more then one misconception happening. For instance, on dragon one week my proton worked fine playing inside but the following week it just didn’t shape right. Could have been the breakdown of the lane but probably more to due to topography of the lane. Pull out a halo pearl at 2k and move out and the shape is back. Another is a ball that stops hooking. I’ll use dragon again. After practice and three balls into the game the reaction. Is gone. Ball stops hooking. Try all different balls and lines with uneven success. Team mate suggested lofting it and the reaction was back. Back in the pocket. Lack of carry kept the game under 200 but it was a clean game – no opens. That’s worth a point! This was an example where some people would bring out a ball with more teeth all it does is make the ball roll out sooner. Now, I ask myself carry down or are the heads going away.
Good job on the video, very high quality and good explanations.
Love these videos, guys. Informative and entertaining – what more could a guy ask for?
I’d really like to see a video or four showing you guys in competition. I’ll cheer for you!